Elastowit Western Figures Gary Dibello Finds, Elastowit has done some more western figures. Next, we look at some figures that Gary Dibello sent me. George Albany wants to know what paint people are using since Testor paints are not being made.
Elastowit Western Figures
Elastowit keeps coming up with new western figures. First up is Ned Kelly with two of his men. Ned Kelly was a famous Australian bandit that wore iron armor.One nice aspect of the figures is you can use them without the helmets.The next new figure is Yul Brynner. He is holding a Winchester. the figure is base on his performance in Adios Sabata. The figure will be available in three different colors: brown, black, and white. I don’t know on the figure on the left who he is to represent.The final set of new figures is three more western women. The poses are firing two pistols, sitting on luggage, and kneeling firing a rifle. Can’t wait to see what they come up with next?
Elastowit Western Figures Gary Dibello Surprises
Gary Dibello knowing my interest in oddball figures sent me a bunch of figures to enjoy. The first figure I spotted was an Indian with a mustache. I think the two figures are from a Pochantos set.The next figures are civilians. The one on the left is from the New Ray Wild Hunting. As to the other two figures, I have no idea. I am trying to figure if the figure on the right is a mechanic or a police officer.The figure on the left is a Safari cowboy stripped of his paint. The figure on the right is a female cowgirl with a lasso.Two astronauts one very likely Safari and Marx. The Marx astronaut is part of a series of astronauts called the Apollo Astronauts. There are 12 different poses. they were done in orange and white. I will be showing more in another post.
Testors Paints
George Albany has informed me that the Testors paints are being discontinued. Rust-Oleum the owner of Testors is dropping some or all of the line according to various reports. George would like to know what you are using instead of Testors.
Catapult
In my last post, I had a question on a catapult from Glynn Boston, He wanted to know who made it. checking the internet, I spotted the answer today on another site done by Hugh Walter. It is from a set called Castles by Designer Eye. I let Glynn know. I was happy to help Glynn as I have help others.
I enjoyed this latest mixed batch of figures, in particular the white astronaut, thought to be Safari. I know Safari’s moonwalking figures, but this one is new to me. The spacesuit is sufficiently detailed to be a fairly accurate depiction of the space shuttle era, but the pose is unusual. It reminds me of spacewalk photos like this one: http://www.astronautix.com/graphics/1/10062245.jpg. I wonder if there are more on the same theme?
From another era, the photo above the astronauts shows a cowboy stripped of his paint. I have found that removing old paint from a plastic figure can be tricky. Is it OK to use standard thinners? I worry about harming the fine details, especially if the paint is stubborn and the only option is to immerse the figure for a prolonged period.
The Safari cowboy is actually just coated with spray paint . I used a flat tan fusion paint. I used it to prime al my figures before painting. Even though he was already painted, I wanted to repaint him with different colors, bu I never got around to it.
Paul is right about the mustachioed Indian. These figures are from a Chinese “Pocahontas” set. It had a colonial figure with it. I converted him to a British officer.
Note the holes in the hands for holding “weapons”. The set came with — spears, swords, and machetes?!
I have used household cleaner, dishwashing liquid and bleach to remove paint from plastic figures. Bleach is the quickest and strongest so only a day or two is necessary but be careful with contact tot he skin. For old metal Britains I have used methylated spirits. I have never had detail affected.
For figures with polyvinyl paint such as Safari and Britains Detail I generally do not strip the paint, but if I want a different finish I just paint over the existing paint which is, itself, fairly impervious to wear and tear so why spoil a good deal?
I have used household cleaner, dishwashing liquid and bleach to remove paint from plastic figures. Bleach is the quickest and strongest so only a day or two is necessary but be careful with contact tot he skin. For old metal Britains I have used methylated spirits. I have never had detail affected.
For figures with polyvinyl paint such as Britains Detail I generally do not strip the paint, but if I want a different finish I just paint over the existing paint which is, itself, fairly impervious to wear and tear so why spoil a good deal?
James– I agree that if the paint is solid on a figure like a Britains Deetail (sp) , all you have to do is just clean it with warm soapy water and paint away if you are using enamels.
Those paints tend to be to shiny. Testors paints were the standard when I was a kiddo in the 60’s. But I think after some child safety laws were passed, the paint became watered-down and ineffective (Even as a small child, it never once occurred to me to consume the paint…anybody else?). I stopped using them because even the “flat/matte” paints dried too shiny.
Anyhow, I started using the fusion spray paint to prime figures. Then I could use the flat acrylic craft paints to build up washes and really bring out the sculpted details.
If you get a 60’s fig that is painted with Testors, try Formula 409 and similar cleaners. You may have to use a tooth brush to get into the crevices, but the figure won’t be harmed.
I gave up on Testors a long time ago; Humbrol was good until the 80s but the tins they came in made it difficult to seal. I was unimpressed with early hobby acrylics. The best thing that happened to my painting was the introduction of Fusion type spray paints for priming and picking up different craft acrylics from places like Michael’s and Hobby Lobby and even Walmart. I could find just about any color to match a military color or mix it. Better, more pigment and with an clear acrylic sealant like we used to use on our paintings combined with the prime, virtual end to chipping and peeling.
Wayne W sums it quite nicely. I would like to see some of the figures he’s painted this way.
When I first started ordering recast Marx ACW figs in the early 90’s, I was so excited to see my “old friends” that I did not realize I needed to thoroughly wash off the mold release residue… or that I should prime the figures! I just wanted to paint ’em up!
And, of course, I was slathering on copious amounts of Testors. After awhile, I figured it out, haha. Sure ’nuff all these years later, those figures’ paint jobs have flaked considerably.
Elastowit: The Ned Kelly figure could be a good candidate for conversion. The head could be used on lots of other figures. Or you could convert his weapons to WW II and paint him up as a Russian.
If you google images for Adios Sabata, you will eventually see a photo of Yul Brynner standing next to a guy with a guitar.
Thanks Gary,
My painting has slowed down due to health issues the last year or so but I still have plenty of pics I’ve posted on several sites or if Paul wouldn’t mind I could share some here I’ve done over the years. I hope to be back at it soon though. I was diagnosed with non-Hodgkins Lymphoma a couple months ago, but they caught it early, the prognosis is good and I am responding well to Chemo. I hope as soon as a few family matters get squared away to pick up the brush again and go at it and have new goodies to share; I’ve had 400 HaT 1/72 Landwehr about half-finished waiting to be done for over a year since I had COVID. (It’s ALWAYS something…) But I’d love to share some of my pics.
Over the years I have changed a little in my paint style. So I improved my painting from reading Gerry Embleton articles in Airfix magazine and various Military modelling books and magazines. I went for as realistic finish as possible.
Now I don’t always mind if there is not a flat finish and actually sometimes like a shine on the figures, not necessarily full gloss but satin-like. The glossy old metal figures actually dulled down to a satin finish and most of the old plastic toy soldiers also had a satin finish.
I always overcoat my figures to protect them as they are handled a lot in wargaming. I do use flat overcoats but sometimes they have an uneven finish. I also have an artists ‘crystal coat’ spray which has a semi mat or semi gloss finish. I don’t go too much for full gloss as the finish can obscure detail.
I also sometimes use some traditional toy soldier traits such as rosy cheeks etc. which I combne with more realistic aspects.
Yes, James–! Even though this blog is mainly about classic plastic figures and odds ‘n’ ends that pop up from all over the world ( Thank You, BTW, to Mr. P. Stad!)… I agree with your take on gloss/satin-like finishes. Mannie Gentile’s “Toy Soldiers, Forever” site features some great examples.
Over the years of being a figure painter, I have fluctuated between hyper-realistic painting– and casual hobbyist painting.
When my eyesight was good, I used fine-tipped markers for eyes, lips, brass buttons, insignia, etc. Later, I just kind of “stylized” it.
Anyhow, I love to see other collectors’ paint schemes and conversions. This is the only place I will see them. NOT on Butt-book or twitter. Old school.
Just for fun, I have been randomly poking around on the older posts– 2011- 2015. Some great stuff!
If you haven’t looked back in awhile, I recommend it.
I was re-reading James’ last post. I’m amazed at how much great painting/detail can be done by 1/72 collectors. Heck, I have to use “cheater glasses” just to type this post!
I hope he will post some photos. He has some 400 HaT 1/72 Landwehr soldaten awaiting final painting details. Now, THAT’s a paint project!
He is correct to recommend Fusion spray paint to prime figures. Then seal them. I was worried the paint flecks would be too huge and obscure sculpted detail on my 1/32-ish scale figures, but I was wrong. He is right to say you can get or mix your own proper military colors very easily.
Several years ago, I corresponded with the owner of Battlefield Legends. He has Britains/Deetail molds. Great and affordable recasts. Nice guy and true “Toy Sojer” guy.
I suggested he might want to start a line of unpainted figures for painters and converters. He asked me about what eras might be most appealing. I suggested ACW and WWII. But really ALL eras qualify. I also suggested flat white or flat tan plastic. But, again– most colors would work. He replied he was interested in the idea. But I did not follow up. But the figures set I bought from him make some great displays.
Gary, my primary focus in painting has generally been my 1/72 scale collection. I began painting them in the 80s when ESCI was going strong so they’d match my Airfix figures. Now, going on 40 years and something like 30,000+ pieces later painted I do the occasional 1/32 project mainly masters and my pet projects like my Alamo. I had thought about painting half my 1/32 collection and leaving the other half pristine but realize there really isn’t enough time to paint both scales seriously. I have a couple projects like my Alamo I want to complete in 1/32 but think I’m going to relive my childhood with my bigger guys.
As I said, my son and his family are staying with us right now before they move overseas; but in a week or so if I feel up to it I want to pitch in and finish the Landwehr project before I pitch into the 218 HaT Austrians I got on crowdfunding. After that, well, there are literally cases waiting.
My wife asks me how many more toy soldiers do I “need?” I smile and give Rockerfeller’s answer when asked how much money was enough, “A few more…”
Wayne W– If Paul OK’s it, I’d like to see your photos posted here. The 1/32 Alamo figs would be great to see, too. I bet lots of others would like to see them.
Or if you want to send some pics directly to me–and this goes for anyone else…
Hope the overseas send-off for your son and his family goes smoothly.
The figure on the left, you mention, who plays a banjo looks a lot like Charles Bronson. I can’t remember any movie whee he did.
The figure with the Banjo is from the film Adios Sabata as well as the Yul Brynner figure.
The cowgirl is a Lincoln Logs figure.
Elastowits do NOT trip my trigger.
I still like using Testors paints–I’m really going to miss ’em. Any more details?
I enjoyed this latest mixed batch of figures, in particular the white astronaut, thought to be Safari. I know Safari’s moonwalking figures, but this one is new to me. The spacesuit is sufficiently detailed to be a fairly accurate depiction of the space shuttle era, but the pose is unusual. It reminds me of spacewalk photos like this one: http://www.astronautix.com/graphics/1/10062245.jpg. I wonder if there are more on the same theme?
From another era, the photo above the astronauts shows a cowboy stripped of his paint. I have found that removing old paint from a plastic figure can be tricky. Is it OK to use standard thinners? I worry about harming the fine details, especially if the paint is stubborn and the only option is to immerse the figure for a prolonged period.
The Safari cowboy is actually just coated with spray paint . I used a flat tan fusion paint. I used it to prime al my figures before painting. Even though he was already painted, I wanted to repaint him with different colors, bu I never got around to it.
Paul is right about the mustachioed Indian. These figures are from a Chinese “Pocahontas” set. It had a colonial figure with it. I converted him to a British officer.
Note the holes in the hands for holding “weapons”. The set came with — spears, swords, and machetes?!
I have used household cleaner, dishwashing liquid and bleach to remove paint from plastic figures. Bleach is the quickest and strongest so only a day or two is necessary but be careful with contact tot he skin. For old metal Britains I have used methylated spirits. I have never had detail affected.
For figures with polyvinyl paint such as Safari and Britains Detail I generally do not strip the paint, but if I want a different finish I just paint over the existing paint which is, itself, fairly impervious to wear and tear so why spoil a good deal?
I have used household cleaner, dishwashing liquid and bleach to remove paint from plastic figures. Bleach is the quickest and strongest so only a day or two is necessary but be careful with contact tot he skin. For old metal Britains I have used methylated spirits. I have never had detail affected.
For figures with polyvinyl paint such as Britains Detail I generally do not strip the paint, but if I want a different finish I just paint over the existing paint which is, itself, fairly impervious to wear and tear so why spoil a good deal?
James– I agree that if the paint is solid on a figure like a Britains Deetail (sp) , all you have to do is just clean it with warm soapy water and paint away if you are using enamels.
Those paints tend to be to shiny. Testors paints were the standard when I was a kiddo in the 60’s. But I think after some child safety laws were passed, the paint became watered-down and ineffective (Even as a small child, it never once occurred to me to consume the paint…anybody else?). I stopped using them because even the “flat/matte” paints dried too shiny.
Anyhow, I started using the fusion spray paint to prime figures. Then I could use the flat acrylic craft paints to build up washes and really bring out the sculpted details.
If you get a 60’s fig that is painted with Testors, try Formula 409 and similar cleaners. You may have to use a tooth brush to get into the crevices, but the figure won’t be harmed.
I gave up on Testors a long time ago; Humbrol was good until the 80s but the tins they came in made it difficult to seal. I was unimpressed with early hobby acrylics. The best thing that happened to my painting was the introduction of Fusion type spray paints for priming and picking up different craft acrylics from places like Michael’s and Hobby Lobby and even Walmart. I could find just about any color to match a military color or mix it. Better, more pigment and with an clear acrylic sealant like we used to use on our paintings combined with the prime, virtual end to chipping and peeling.
Wayne W sums it quite nicely. I would like to see some of the figures he’s painted this way.
When I first started ordering recast Marx ACW figs in the early 90’s, I was so excited to see my “old friends” that I did not realize I needed to thoroughly wash off the mold release residue… or that I should prime the figures! I just wanted to paint ’em up!
And, of course, I was slathering on copious amounts of Testors. After awhile, I figured it out, haha. Sure ’nuff all these years later, those figures’ paint jobs have flaked considerably.
Elastowit: The Ned Kelly figure could be a good candidate for conversion. The head could be used on lots of other figures. Or you could convert his weapons to WW II and paint him up as a Russian.
If you google images for Adios Sabata, you will eventually see a photo of Yul Brynner standing next to a guy with a guitar.
Thanks Gary,
My painting has slowed down due to health issues the last year or so but I still have plenty of pics I’ve posted on several sites or if Paul wouldn’t mind I could share some here I’ve done over the years. I hope to be back at it soon though. I was diagnosed with non-Hodgkins Lymphoma a couple months ago, but they caught it early, the prognosis is good and I am responding well to Chemo. I hope as soon as a few family matters get squared away to pick up the brush again and go at it and have new goodies to share; I’ve had 400 HaT 1/72 Landwehr about half-finished waiting to be done for over a year since I had COVID. (It’s ALWAYS something…) But I’d love to share some of my pics.
Over the years I have changed a little in my paint style. So I improved my painting from reading Gerry Embleton articles in Airfix magazine and various Military modelling books and magazines. I went for as realistic finish as possible.
Now I don’t always mind if there is not a flat finish and actually sometimes like a shine on the figures, not necessarily full gloss but satin-like. The glossy old metal figures actually dulled down to a satin finish and most of the old plastic toy soldiers also had a satin finish.
I always overcoat my figures to protect them as they are handled a lot in wargaming. I do use flat overcoats but sometimes they have an uneven finish. I also have an artists ‘crystal coat’ spray which has a semi mat or semi gloss finish. I don’t go too much for full gloss as the finish can obscure detail.
I also sometimes use some traditional toy soldier traits such as rosy cheeks etc. which I combne with more realistic aspects.
Yes, James–! Even though this blog is mainly about classic plastic figures and odds ‘n’ ends that pop up from all over the world ( Thank You, BTW, to Mr. P. Stad!)… I agree with your take on gloss/satin-like finishes. Mannie Gentile’s “Toy Soldiers, Forever” site features some great examples.
Over the years of being a figure painter, I have fluctuated between hyper-realistic painting– and casual hobbyist painting.
When my eyesight was good, I used fine-tipped markers for eyes, lips, brass buttons, insignia, etc. Later, I just kind of “stylized” it.
Anyhow, I love to see other collectors’ paint schemes and conversions. This is the only place I will see them. NOT on Butt-book or twitter. Old school.
Just for fun, I have been randomly poking around on the older posts– 2011- 2015. Some great stuff!
If you haven’t looked back in awhile, I recommend it.
I was re-reading James’ last post. I’m amazed at how much great painting/detail can be done by 1/72 collectors. Heck, I have to use “cheater glasses” just to type this post!
I hope he will post some photos. He has some 400 HaT 1/72 Landwehr soldaten awaiting final painting details. Now, THAT’s a paint project!
He is correct to recommend Fusion spray paint to prime figures. Then seal them. I was worried the paint flecks would be too huge and obscure sculpted detail on my 1/32-ish scale figures, but I was wrong. He is right to say you can get or mix your own proper military colors very easily.
Several years ago, I corresponded with the owner of Battlefield Legends. He has Britains/Deetail molds. Great and affordable recasts. Nice guy and true “Toy Sojer” guy.
I suggested he might want to start a line of unpainted figures for painters and converters. He asked me about what eras might be most appealing. I suggested ACW and WWII. But really ALL eras qualify. I also suggested flat white or flat tan plastic. But, again– most colors would work. He replied he was interested in the idea. But I did not follow up. But the figures set I bought from him make some great displays.
Gary, my primary focus in painting has generally been my 1/72 scale collection. I began painting them in the 80s when ESCI was going strong so they’d match my Airfix figures. Now, going on 40 years and something like 30,000+ pieces later painted I do the occasional 1/32 project mainly masters and my pet projects like my Alamo. I had thought about painting half my 1/32 collection and leaving the other half pristine but realize there really isn’t enough time to paint both scales seriously. I have a couple projects like my Alamo I want to complete in 1/32 but think I’m going to relive my childhood with my bigger guys.
As I said, my son and his family are staying with us right now before they move overseas; but in a week or so if I feel up to it I want to pitch in and finish the Landwehr project before I pitch into the 218 HaT Austrians I got on crowdfunding. After that, well, there are literally cases waiting.
My wife asks me how many more toy soldiers do I “need?” I smile and give Rockerfeller’s answer when asked how much money was enough, “A few more…”
Wayne W– If Paul OK’s it, I’d like to see your photos posted here. The 1/32 Alamo figs would be great to see, too. I bet lots of others would like to see them.
Or if you want to send some pics directly to me–and this goes for anyone else…
Hope the overseas send-off for your son and his family goes smoothly.